There is nothing else for it: parlous neck or not, for a real taste of surfing, Hawaii-style, I have to paddle out on the north shore. Back at the Turtle Bay, I speak to yet another surfing hero: Hans Hedemann, a man who finished fourth on the world...

Headed down to Malekahana beach for a swim in the morning. This was a classic slice of paradise and made for some excellent beach running too. Tony Plant's painting did not come on this trip but it did meet Hans Hedemann at lunchtime. Hans was a good...